See the nice inside wave, looks easy but that's not even close to outside. Behind it is the big waves, look how hard they crash the water and spray back up. Those faces are in my estimates 6-8' maybe more and pitching hollow. That's what snapped Red board into 3 pieces. I've been hammered a few times and done a few air drops into the bottom of waves on late take offs, none succesfully. But the water is warm and its been big and solid surf like this for two weeks straight now. I took these pics right after a surf session and could not see anyone else on the beach in either direction. No crowds is a bonus.
New Board is a C.I. Gravy
Kids caught some sand crabs and aren't afraid to hold them.
Momma really doesn't get too relax much...
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